Mahabalipuram (Part 1)

Mahabalipuram, or Mamallapuram, was the chief seaport of the Pallavas who ruled over much of South India from as early as the first century B.C to the eighth century A.D., and it is now recognized as the site of some of the greatest architectural and sculptural achievements in India. Under the reign of Narasimha Varman (c. 630), this seaport began to grow as a great artistic center. The beautiful cave temples and gigantic open air reliefs carved from blocks of granite date to the seventh century. (http://www.sscnet.ucla.edu)

Mahabalipuram was not high on my list when I went to India, but the best things I found there were the one's I had not planned for. I absolutely loved this place. The thing is, there is SO much to see that there just isn't enough room on the average American tourists radar for wonderful sites like this even thought it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sharanya's dad procured a cab for us from Madras for the entire day which costs about 1400 IRP total (about $26 US) including the services of the driver. It took about an hour and a half each way. The entrance fee for the world heritage site is $5. For $20 each and lunch, this trip was one of the best bargains I got in India.

At the southern edge of Mahabalipuram is a group of five free-standing temples. Four of them were carved out of a single long granite boulder. These temples are actually detailed replicas of ancient wooden structures. These temples represent the rathas(chariots) of Arjuna, Bhima, Dharmaraja, Nakula-Sahadeva -- the five Pandava princes of the epic Mahabharata -- and their common wife, Draupadi. Work on these five temples was stopped after the death of Narasimha Varman in 668. (http://www.sscnet.ucla.edu)

This is site is so huge you could spend a week here before you felt like you have seen most everything. Because, by mid-day, the sweltering heat that radiates off the rocks drives you to seek a fresh drink in the shade. Nyasha and I did just that at a lovely eco-resort called INDeco Hotels which is situated, in walking distance, between the cave temples and the beach. I checked out the costs and it's about $65 to $140 US per night. We poked around a bit, their bar is nice and clean, their staff is helpful and their pool is lovely. http://www.indecohotels.com/ I personally think this is the place to stay and the place to arrange a proper guide.

The story of the Pandava's, to whom many of these temples are dedicated is found in the Mahabharata - an epic story of Iron age India. Most of the carvings at Mahabalipuram depict scenes from the Mahabharata, of   the Pandava dynasty and the Kurukshetra war, something akin to the Iliad. You can find a nice summary of this story at http://www.wmblake.com/stories/mahabharata/introduction.html

As Promised, here are some of the photo's (FINALLY) of beautiful and enchanting Mahabalipuram.

Downtown - just after the entrance to INDeco Hotel. This city is pretty clean for a tourist spot in India. 

A view of the Bay of Bengal and the surrounding area from the hill top.

One of the smaller Pancha Rathas carved, insitu, and completely from a single piece of stone.

Carvings in the cave and (the black pillar pictured right),
the Shiva Lingam.

  The Hindu scripture Shiva Purana describes the worship of the lingam as originating in the loss and recovery of Shiva's phallus, though it also describes the origin of the lingam as the beginning-less and endless pillar (Stambha).The Linga Purana also supports the latter interpretation as a cosmic pillar, symbolizing the infinite nature of Shiva. 

Looking up at the temple still in use today.

The Vahara Cave Temple. This depicts one of Vishnu's incarnations as a boar.

Mandalas on the ceiling

Stairs leading up to the hilltop temple. 

The highest temple.

A clan of monkeys.

These young men asked me to take their picture. They were enchanted with us and with Nyasha in particular. Although I'm sure they come, we didn't really see any western tourists. 

The Shore temple complex.

There was so much to see at Mahabalipuram, we didn't even get to scratch the surface in the short time we had, as we had to be back to Madras for one of the wedding ceremonies that evening. Even with just a single day's visit, I will have to make another post on it to properly show you all the shore temple and the beach. Stay tuned.....