Travel Bug

Everyone knows when you travel you are likely to get sick. And when you travel abroad there are places where you are likely to get really sick. So, like a good girl, I went to get my travel shots. The one's I really needed for travelling weren't too bad, but it was the routine booster that kicked my ass.

Yeah, that lovely on my upper arm is from a shot...oh well. 

I had originally planned to stay at a pretty little guest house over looking the Ganges in Varanasi, but I changed my mind. I went with something a little more upscale and away from the city. Why? you ask...

Monsoon. 

I'm pretty sure I can handle the crowds, the garbage, the chaos, the cows, the dead bodies and even the smells, but for my own well being I decided I need a reliable place to rest my head at night. This is a place where I will need AC. My biggest fear is not of overwhelming my mind, but my brain. I don't want my trip to become a seizure session. So, here is what you get for $36 a night in Varanasi. We'll see if it's decent. If not, I'll find another place and be out a few bucks.

A big bed and AC...

So, it doesn't over look the river, but that's okay. All together, it will take me about 30 hours (if all goes well) to get from Seattle to Varanasi, it's still monsoon season and it's going to be 90+ degrees and 75% humidity. 

To be very honest, I'm feeling a bit vulnerable at the moment. I am realizing intensity of the places I have chosen to go to on my own. They are not exactly fluffy tourist spots. I worry that I will have a seizure from lack of sleep, sickness, heat or who knows what other trigger. But more than that, I'm feeling overwhelmed just by the thought of going. Not because I'm afraid of what is there, but because of the unknown of what comes after. I have wanted to go to this place since I was Kai's age. Sometimes actually getting to do what you have always wanted leaves the future a little too wide open for comfort. What will be next? (Oh, I'm sure I can find something.) And the more expectations we have of a place (or a person) the more likely we are to be disappointed once we actually get what we want. It seems to me the only way to avoid disappointment is to throw out expectations and be open to experiences. Are you surprised to hear that from me? Probably not. But it is a little philosophical for a Friday, I know. 

Anyway, to reassure myself, I had a talk with Suraj last night, and this AM I decided to hire a private guide for the day and let him or her introduce me to the place. I think it will be money well spent. I don't want to waste my time trying to sort out the best places to go and I think I will go with one of these guys: http://varanasi.to/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=90&Itemid=142

Hopefully they will also help me to keep me from getting a few travel bugs I don't want. 

Chennai

I love people and places that surprise you in delightful and unexpected ways. As I mentioned, I probably would not have chosen to go to Chennai, but it turns out that I will be spending a good portion of my time there. 

 The thing that attracted me the most in the beginning was the Kapaleeshwar temple in Mylapore. It is not far from my friends house. Built in the seventh century B.C. by the Pallava kings and dedicated to Lord Siva and the goddess Parvati, this is the oldest temple in Chennai. 

I'm sure there will be plenty to do with for her wedding, but I thought I needed to find a few things to do if I just need to get out of the way for a while. What I found is something kind of unique, it is a tour called Story Trails. Run by a bunch of over-educated historians, art students and MBA's this is one of the few tourist activities I have found that I want to spend money on. Here is what they have to say about themselves:

India exists in her stories. 

And each neighbourhood boasts a history rich in mystique. To truly experience India, try sampling the local life, with its mélange of customs, traditions and stories.

You’ll realize that the sights you see are but a small part of her charm. 

Storytrails was born with the idea of seeing India through her stories. Taking our guests to savor the local sights and sounds but through the eyes of a storyteller. Going beyond the sights themselves, and uncovering the characters through time that made these places come alive.

Some fact, some fiction, some myths and some superstition.
We do not want you to merely visit. Come, be a part of the story!

http://www.storytrails.in/index.html

Another place I hope to go, given the time, is the Cholamandal Artist's Village:

Cholamandal Artist's Village in Chennai lies amidst a pretty casuarina grove just 9 km. away from the city of Chennai. Started in 1965, Cholamandal is an Artists' village spread on 8 acres of land 8 km. south of Adyar on Muttukadu Road on the Sea. Surrounded by an old and sparsely populated village Injambakkam, Cholamandal is today the hub of thirty painters and sculptors who have established the village and run the Artists Handicrafts Association.

We will also be doing some Saree shopping in Chennai for Sharanya's wedding as well as making a little party trip to Pondicherry. It seems to me that the truly delightful part of Chennai is going to be in friends and family there. 

A Note to my Son on Travelling

I've been told I should take you to Disneyland. Or Sea World. Or Legoland. But I refuse to dumb-down the world for you.

The world is sometimes harsh, but I think you can handle it. The world is big and beautiful, it is in constant creation, it is pulsing and blooming with things that you have not yet imagined. But I know one day you will imagine a world no one else has. Pack light so you have room on the way to collect some things from your journeys. Stop and talk to people often. Be adventurous. Don't worry to much about the bugs.

I picked you when you were still unknown to me. I chose to be your mentor. That is not an easy path because I cannot know what coming world to prepare you for. So, this is what I choose - to surround you with people who live in a different time, younger and older, who have different experiences and different ideas. I have surrounded you with people who have left their homes to make new one's elsewhere so that you will have an example of how it is done.


I brought you up so far in this safe, little village so that you can know the value of home and family and a big comfortable bed. A small place where you can feel competent, secure and in control. A known. Because soon enough you will be heading out into a world that is not yet. An unknown.

Some journey's are shared. What would our world be like if our friends had not shared theirs with us? Less beautiful, less colorful, less like life. I'm going now to help my friends on their journey and one day you will too. You will tell their children what some distant, exotic place is like. They will be able to help their children grow because they have watched you scout ahead.

Remember to support your friends on their adventures, even if they chose to go to Disneyland.

I will scout ahead for you now and peer as closely as I can into the potential future. Just remember, if, sometimes, I am not with you, it is not because I don't love you. It is because some journey's must be taken alone.

Story Time

I've been in this country for way too long. You have probably all noticed that I can't wait to get out again. I had plans about two years ago to go to Turin, Italy, but the economy put a damper on that one. I was planning to go this year but then I got invited to Chennai.  Anyway, Turin is a place I wanted to share with someone else.

Travel plans never quite go the way you expect, do they? Everyone has a travel story. Usually, the best one's are funny....in retrospect.

I want to invite you all to leave a comment here and tell me yours.

IST

(Rated PG)

To give you an idea of how this whole wedding thing is going to go, I'll start by telling you about a little bit of our trip planning discussion. Sharanya mentioned to me that we are going to be staying over night at the wedding venue so we won't be late and she thought I should bring a sleeping bag. Oh, says I, what time will the wedding start? 4:30 is the answer she gives me.

Now I'm confused. Is traffic so bad that it will take us all day to get there? Are there major preparations to be made? Will there be a lack of room at Chez Rajagopal? It's no problem, I could just get a hotel room close by...

Nope - the reason is something I had never even considered - she meant 4:30 AM. Apparently, this is the auspicious time. This is a culture where the timing of your wedding, the birth of your children and any other major events in your life are very important. But Indian's also don't give a shit about time. Over the past year or so I have come to terms with IST - Indian Stretchy Time.

I've also learned a few things about the fatalistic mentality that seems to accompany this concept of time or lack there of. After all, if you're going to be reincarnated until you get things right you're probably not going to worry if you miss the bus, there will be another one along...whenever.

For those of you who don't know me, lack of punctuality drives me nuts! But I have come to accept it with them. I've learned a whole lot about the very idea of time. It's funny to know so much about ideas like Karma, Moksha or the Buddha nature of the universe, but until you experience them in an everyday situation, you don't realize how different that way of thinking really is.

It seems to me that everyone in the world experiences our linear, anal retentive, GMT standards because we have shipped our culture all over the world. Having lived with the ideas of reincarnation for thousands of years, Indians generally just have a completely different concept of time. I kind of like it. Linear was getting a little boring.

Let me enlighten you with a text exchange I had with Sharanya.

Me: are you guys planning on coming down today?
Sharanya: Nope we don't have the invites with us. I still need to do some shopping.
Me: Isn't it a little late for invites? :)
Sharanya: Haha. we are indians. ergo its never too late.

Metaphysically speaking, that is one of the funniest fucking things I have ever heard.

Oh, I just got the invitation. The wedding actually starts at 9:00am...give or take.

101 Things I Wish I Could Do

For those of you who think you are not interested in going to India, or for those of you who are looking for something to do the next time you go home, check this out:  http://www.thrillophilia.com/blog/things-to-do-in-india-101-best-one/

Chetan sent me this link the other day. I don't think I will get to all 101 things, but I do have a few on my list...

 1. Visit the Taj Mahal- The Epitome of Love

When listing the must things to do in India, you can’t leave Taj Mahal out. Built in 17th century, this white marble monument attracts thousands of tourists from all over the world. It is the epitome of love as the world knows it. While a visit to Taj Mahal at any time of the day is exciting, consider visiting it during night, preferably on a full moon night. The charges are a little higher for night visits, but it is worth the experience.

3. Old Delhi tour and Chandni Chowk- Fall in Love with the Chaos

This is where you get to feel the pulse of Delhi. As you make your way through narrow streets filled with people, you start wonder how people can live in such a chaotic place. But soon enough, you fall in love with the chaos and the liveliness of the place. While in Old Delhi and Chandni Chowk area, do not miss a visit to Paranthe Wali Gali, lip smacking Mutton Burra at Karim’s, traditional Indian sweets and a visit to Jama Masjid. A rickshaw ride completes the experience. You will be left thrilled by the way rickshaw puller makes his way through the crowd.

10. Take a walk from Dashashwamedh Ghat to Assi Ghat, Varanasi- Embrace Spirituality

Talking of spirituality, you just cannot leave Varanasi out. While here, consider taking a walk from Dashashwamedh Ghat to Assi Ghat. The Dashashwamedh Ghat remains most crowded most times of the day. But that shouldn’t deter your spirit. In fact, watching the religious ceremony which happens every evening at 7 is a must have experience. As you walk from Dashashwamedh to Assi, you come across several small ghats, where people are seen revering the Ganges, and some saying their final goodbyes to their departed loved ones.

37. Visit the Colonial Past with a Tram ride in Kolkata

Kolkata, with its colonial past, is a destination with a rich cultural heritage. a part of this heritage is the tram system which runs through the city- the only city in India to have a tram network. Trams in Kolkata date back to 1902. The transport system is still in good order and connects several parts of the city. It is an experience you cannot have in any other part of the country.

99. Pop a Golgappa in your mouth- A burst of flavor

Called a phuchka in Kolkata, Golgappa is one of the best Indian snacks for the evening. Filled with tangy tamarind water, it gives you a burst of flavor as it pops in your mouth. Make sure you pop in the whole golgappa at once. That’s the real fun part of having this Indian delight.

Just one last thing....Damn it, Sharanya! I told you they have wine in India!

55. Explore one of the best wine destinations of India with a Nashik Wine Trip

Indians may not be too fond of having wine, but Nashik definitely boasts of some pretty spectacular vineyards. Book a stay in one of the several resorts of the region which are located close to some of the finest vineyards of the region. Take a tour of the vineyards in Nashik, where you can even taste some pretty delicious wine too- if you know how to appreciate this drink that is.

Dress up

What you take with you on a trip can either make or break you sometimes. Carrying around a bunch of luggage can make you slow and, sometimes, vulnerable. So, what does a girl take with her to India aside from the essential underwear? I hate packing so I like to start early so I don't feel overwhelmed at the last minute. Quite frankly, I'm a much better packer for longer trips than I am for short ones.

One pair of jeans - I know what you're thinking, but one pair is plenty. Remember, it's hot. Very hot. And wearing shorts will make me feel like I stick out too much. Anyway, most of these hotels have laundry service.

One pair of good trekking/sailing pants - Luckily I am well versed in trekking wear and have a great pair of pants that are breathable, stretchy, have plenty of pockets, have little tabs that secure the cuffs when you roll them up and are light. Perfect.

Two Saree's - Sharanya loves to dress me up like her little doll and I don't mind. It's a girl thing. So, I have some experience wearing sarees, and wearing them is a bit of an art. I picked a very traditional, light, silk one to being with me. Saree's consist of a short top, an underskirt and the saree it's self. The Pallu is the pretty end that wraps across your front then hangs over your left arm, or (if you are wearing it Gujarati style) behind your back then over your right shoulder. I am bringing one as a 'just in case' for her wedding, but I will have to buy at least two more when I get there.



One Salwar suit - Who wouldn't want to wear one of these. Luv sneered at me the first time he saw me  in one and said something about his mother always wearing one. He has obviously not worn one or he would have known that it's like wearing your pajamas and feeling fancy at the same time. They are practical, comfortable and cheap.

One pair of cotton sweats - duh.

Two tee-shirts - I picked a black one and a light colored one.

One or two Kurti's - These are cotton Indian tops.



Shoes - one pair of tennis shoes, one pair of flip flops and one pair of fancy shoes. I will undoubtedly wear the flip-flops the most. I would take flip-flops with me to siberia. Although they may not be practical for everything, the are practical for most things. They are light, don't take up a lot of space, washable, disposable, comfortable and cheap. Okabashi's are your second best bet.

One bathing suit - Chetan has sold us on staying one night at a five star hotel (for, no kidding, $100 a night split between Nyasha and I) in Agra and they have a beautiful pool.

One towel - If you don't know why you need to take a towel with you on trips, read the Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy.

http://www.itchotels.in/hotels/itcmughal/overview.aspx

Yup. That's about it ladies. The rest can be purchased along the way if necessary.

The other issue with traveling is that you always want to have at least one day's clothes and the things you will need in your carry-on. And lets face it, the best carry-on's around are diaper bags. I picked one up at Values Village for $5. Conveniently, my Kindle Fire is about the same size and thickness as three disposable diapers so it fits perfectly in the little pocket. Packing properly is important on long trips because lugging around a heavy bag for 24 hours straight gets old really fast. Additionally, they are made of softer fabrics than suitcases, so they make better pillows and the interior is almost always wipeable.

I have one small, rolling suitcase and one small carry-on. I guess I did learn something in Girl Scouts - be prepared. Thanks mom.

Preparations

So, as you can see, I have added a few things to this blog in the upper right hand corner. I'll be doing some updating this week to get it ready, in order to make it as easy as possible for me to make posts often without wasting a lot of time formatting or explaining things. I also want to make it as easy as possible for you guys to use and to contact me. Please poke around and do some mental packing for our trip.

Bon Voyage

Hello friends,

As many of you might already know, I'm leaving in two weeks for a trip. It seems the easiest way to share my fun with you is through a blog."Karie," my friend said to me the other day, "this is a big trip for you. Perhaps no one in your family has ever been to India."

This is true. In fact, few people in my family have ever even been out of the country. The United States, and particularly the West Coast, can be very isolating. I thought about my friends statement for a while and I realized, not only was he right, but I am the only person I know of in my family, besides my little sister, who has ever even been to Europe. Luckily for me, my parents have given me a love of traveling, even if their choices of destinations are different than mine, and they have gathered about them plenty of family friends who have ventured far and wide.

I want to give you all, my family and my friends, the chance to travel with me for a while. It will be fun, AND you won't have to pack, you can sleep in your own bed and you can drink the water. I hope that you will share this with your kids or your parents (I'll try to keep the swearing to a minimum). For my friends who have been to India or who are from India, I hope it will give you chance to see your country from a different perspective.

I guess that you all probably know that India has been high on my list of places to visit since I was able to read. For those of you who don't know, I was invited to go to the wedding of my friends who are getting married in Chennai (Madras). They are the two in the upper right hand corner... As you can guess from the picture, they are lots of fun.

So, I wanted to start out this little travel blog before my trip starts so that I can give you all a little background on where we will be going. The final itinerary (I hope) is this: Varanasi (Benaras) - Kolkata (Calcutta) - Chennai (Madras) -Delhi - Agra.

I would guess that some of you will find that India is a very different place than what you expect. It is modern, it is ancient, it is layered and it is a complicated place. There is no one thing anyone can say definitively about it. We'll start simple, with Wikipedia:

Home to the ancient Indus Valley Civilisation and a region of historic trade routes and vast empires, the Indian subcontinent was identified with its commercial and cultural wealth for much of its long history. Four of the world's major religions—Hinduism,Buddhism, Jainism, and Sikhism—originated here, whereas Zoroastrianism, Christianity, and Islam arrived in the 1st millennium CEand also helped shape the region's diverse culture. Gradually annexed by and brought under the administration of the British East India Company from the early 18th century and administered directly by the United Kingdom from the mid-19th century, India became an independent nation in 1947 after a struggle for independence that was marked by non-violent resistance led by Mahatma Gandhi.

The Indian economy is the world's eleventh-largest by nominal GDP and third-largest by purchasing power parity (PPP). Followingmarket-based economic reforms in 1991, India became one of the fastest-growing major economies; it is considered a newly industrialised country. However, it continues to face the challenges of poverty, illiteracy, corruption, terrorism, and inadequate public healthcare. A nuclear weapons state and a regional power, it has the third-largest standing army in the world and ranks eighth in military expenditure among nations. India is a federal constitutional republic governed under a parliamentary system consisting of 28 states and 7 union territories. India is a pluralistic, multilingual, and multiethnic society. It is also home to a diversity of wildlife in a variety of protected habitats.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_India